The Road to Catalunya: Part Two

The second chapter of a journey across the Iberian Peninsula: Exploring in Monfragüe and making new acquaintances.

The sound of birdsong rang through the valley like a natural symphony. It was going to be a beautiful day. Not just because warmth and sunshine was forecasted, but a deep feeling that I am in the right place at the right time. I watched the early morning fog roll off the mountain ridge a few hundred metres above, before heading back the van for coffee and breakfast. There was no plan for the day other than to walk in the woods and see where the trail took me.

Climbing upwards along a series of stone steps, me and Lupa walked past a water fountain, following a trail that appeared to wind upwards into the luscious mountain forest. Surrounded by mossy banks and moisture-loving trees, I noticed that we must be on the north face of the peak, hidden from the full intensity of the Iberian sun. This kind of vibrant green foliage is not something that you sees often in Spain, it was certainly a pleasant surprise. Patches of wildflowers are dotted along the path — daisies, bluebells and some other species that I couldn’t yet identify. A part of the wonder of being in a new place is to become a humble student of the environment. Observing, learning, discovering. To celebrate not knowing.

The higher I ascended the greener it became. I noticed a sign for the Castillo Monfragüe and realised that I now had an objective to aim towards. I saw glimpses of the granite castle perched high above me and passed an elderly British couple who were also on their way up. I asked them where they from, Newcastle they said. I asked them where they were going and they explained that they were visiting their daughter in Lagos, near to where I started my journey in Portugal. We said our goodbyes and I continued upward. A panoramic view of the Rio Teja emerged through the trees, similarly wending its way towards its destination, where the river meets the Atlantic ocean in Portugal. The full vista gradually began to offer itself as I approached the final few steps up to the castle.

After soaking up the views from the top, it was time to flow back down the trail to the forested nook where my van is parked. It was getting increasingly busier as the day progressed — at one point I must have passed a procession of Spanish school kids, each of them making adoring noises as they noticed the puppy by my side.

Around halfway down the mountain, I crossed paths with an Australian couple. I noticed they spoke English when they greeted Lupa running towards them and so I struck up a conversation. We went through the usual questions — where we’re from, where we’re going. They seemed like interesting people and the conversation quickly progressed beyond small talk and into the deeper topics. You know it’s a good talk when you are so immersed in the exchange that you forget to ask for each other’s names. They introduced themselves as Kate & George, originally from Australia but officially on the road since 2013 when they decided to quit their jobs and travel around Europe in a motorhome.

We must have been talking for well over an hour, perched on the side of the trail as the fellow hikers passed us by. Lupa even fell asleep in the leaves for a while. Our conversation was wide and ranging in topics from family, purpose, nature, freedom…the list goes on. It was incredible to meet other people who refuse to be confined into categories and expectations. I’ve found that the common stereotype of this kind of alternative lifestyle is to be labelled as some kind of hippie, when the reality is that stereotypes are often short-sighted and limiting. Outcasts or outlaws, hippies or outdoor lovers, the label doesn’t matter. We’re all human and we’re all looking for truth in a variety of different ways. I celebrate the truth seekers.

As we emerged out of the time warp we had created through our talk, we exchanged phone numbers and said to keep in touch. They were also heading to Portugal. Another synchronicity. I said I would meet them again when I return, having completed the next phase of my adventure. Kate shared how she loved these coincidental moments and I said that I don’t believe in coincidence. Our encounter seemed so perfectly orchestrated, that I don’t think it occurred by chance.

High on joyful emotions, I hopped down the final few steps that lead back to the van. I was so ecstatic that I decided to explore the other trail that wandered along the bank of the river. Feeling the fatigue of the warmth and mid-afternoon fade, me and Lupa climbed down the rocky valley and found a small river beach to go for a dip. I felt free, so free. Just the breeze, the ebb and flow of the river lapping against the shore. The sun sat directly above, offering its warm caress to all who were receptive. I accepted its gifts with deep appreciation.

When I made it back to my mobile home for the second time that day, I decided to look for phone service so I could send some messages. I looked back at the van and noticed something on the windshield — from the distance it looked like a parking ticket. I felt a bolt of anxiety travel up my spine, for a second my mind spiralled into paranoid thoughts. Had I broken some kind of rule for the national park? Upon further inspection I noticed it wasn’t actually a parking ticket. It was a bar of chocolate, with a note on it. My shoulders dropped and I realised this was a gift from my new Australian friends. My emotions did a complete reversal in that moment, from impulsive fear to overwhelming gratitude. They must have passed by the van when I was gone by the river. The note said “Sorry we missed you, Wise One! Stay in touch. ♥️ Kate & George.”

I was gutted to have missed them but I knew that our paths would cross again soon. It was truly one of the best encounters I have had whilst being on the road. These kinds of humbling experiences, both unexpected and unplanned, always become the fondest memories.